In the morning we strolled around Morelia again and took pictures of Santuario de Guadalupe, Calz Fray Antonio de San Miguel, Callejon del Romance, Fuente Las Tarascas, the Catedral, Palacio Clavijero, Palacio de Gobierno, Palacio de Justica, etc. We also went to sample and purchase sweets from Mercado de Dulces, which included such as treats as ate de fruta ( coloured cubes...that did not taste good); Cocadas (caramelised coconut - as you'd expect, but were quite nice, if you like coconut); Jamoncillo (like fudge, but not as good as the UK stuff); Obeas Con Cajeta (carmel filling between two wafers...yum); Morelianos (pancake looking, waffle tasting heaven). Later, we went to Casa de las Artesanias, which given the time of year, was Day of the Dead themed.

Morelia is by far our favourite Mexican city so far. The city is so well preserved that it's on the UNESCO list. Surprisingly, not many tourists go here, so we didn't get harassed at all. It also felt the safest city we'd been to.

Things seem to getting better and better, until...

We were stuck in Mexico City's neverending traffic and then got pulled by the police. They begin to tell us we had to pay a fine as we were not allowed to drive our vehicle into the city on today's date. I'd read about this - the last digit of your registration plate determines when you are prohibited from driving said vehicle in the city on a specified day. This only applied Monday -Friday, and our registration plate ended with a 6, which was a Monday restriction. There was another restriction in relation to vehicles over 9 years old, where one Saturday a month, the same restriction applied to the vehicle. Unfortunately, I was unsure whether the latter applied today, given the website (just google it) is in Spanish. Joyful.

The officers asked for Gwyn's ID and the vehicle permit, then used their friend on the telephone to interpret, who informed us we had been stung with a 8000 pesos (about $650USD/£400GBP) fine. We refused out right and said we'd pay it at a police station. After 15 minutes they got bored and let us go. Another day, another bribe. NB If ever in this situation, only give photocopies of documents and if asked if you have a phone, deny having one. Also, say you will only pay fines at the police station, then get a receipt and make a complaint at Sectur (foreign advice service). We later found out that the restrictive vehicle use on the Saturday was not even today, so if we had any doubts about whether it was in fact a genuine fine, it definitely was not the case.

We finally got to the hotel. We're staying at Hotel Metropol. It's apparently a 4 star, but it's all front of house; the rooms are basic. Still...we got it cheap from www.hotels.com and it's right in the middle of the historical district. Plus, it has a power shower we can completely stand up in; actual human-sized beds with no fear of banging our heads; free wi-fi; and free parking, albeit it was sketchy times if Dougal would make it under the barrier (phew). Hello, room service...

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